Well, the dream has finally come true.

The February 2011 issue of Hot Rod showed up in my mailbox a few days ago with the cover screaming, “America’s Hottest Engine Swap!” I could tell by the pictures they were talking about the Chevy LS engine series. Sure enough, starting on page 34 they had coverage of the Holley LS Fest held back in September in Bowling Green, Kentucky.

The Holley LS Fest was Holley’s way of recognizing the growing popularity of the LS engine and also a way to show off their LS-related products. Every car entered in the event had to be LS powered.

Back to Hot Rod. The headline on page 35 says, “Here are our Top 25 Cars…” Since I had attended the Fest, I started thumbing through to see if I recognized any of their picks. Sure enough, I remembered most of them.

Then, I stopped on page 40. There it was. Maybe the first and only BMW to ever show up in Hot Rod magazine. Old Red. My 1987 535iS with its baby LS2, an all-aluminum 5.3 with Corvette intake.

Now, it was only a third of a page with a small photo of the car and another photo of the engine bay but it had a quote from me and of course, mentioned that the accessory drive system was by Kwik Performance.

Finally, my ego came back to a more normal but still inflated state and I started checking the other 24 cars from the Fest. I wanted to see how many others had Kwik Performance accessory systems.

Here’s what I found:
Page 42–Brian Finch, 1971 Camaro. Brian took 1st place in the street tire class at the autocross event.
Page 43–David Knight, 1979 Corvette. This Grand Sport lookalike sported one of the cleanest LS3 swaps ever.
Page 45–Phil Brewer, 1964 Pontiac LeMans. This is Phil’s ratty calling card for his business–BRP Hot Rods, makers of Muscle Rods engine conversion products.

Also featured in the same issue is a how-to article about Hot Rod’s 1979 Camaro project car with its LS3 “E-Rod” GM crate engine. This car was at the Holley LS Fest and was built by Mike Copeland and his crew at Diversified Creations, Brighton, Michigan. If that name sounds familiar, it’s because Mike also is responsible for the 1955 Chevy pickup I mentioned in our post about the 2010 SEMA show. Check it out at this link: Kwik Visits SEMA 2010

So, if your want to see 25 LS-powered vehicles that range from the usual Camaros to an unusual BMW, or to even an LS-1 stuffed Geo Tracker, check out the February 2011 issue of Hot Rod magazine.

Wayne

Here’s one alternative:

Trot down to your local hardware store or home center and grab a few copper fittings from the plumbing department. You’ll need a short section of 1/2″ tubing (either the rigid or bendable kind will work), a 90 degree street elbow (a street L has a male diameter on one end, female on the other), a female pipe thead sweat fitting and a brass 5/8″ hose barb with 1/2″ male pipe threads.

Step One

Cut a length of the copper tubing approximately 3/4″ long. Deburr and then polish one end to make it easier to press into the power steering pump.

Here’s where the tubing will press in.

The larger diameter is approximately 3/4″ but you’ll use the smaller diameter which is approximately 5/8″.

Step Two

If you plan on sweating your fittings together with solder, you’ll want to sweat the short piece of tubing and the 90 degree street elbow together before you press fit the tubing. If you plan on using epoxy, you can press in the tubing by itself, then glue on the elbow.

Tubing and street elbow before joining

Tubing and street elbow after joining and ready for pipe thread fitting

Step Three

Now add the copper fitting with 1/2″ male copper on one end, 1/2″ female pipe threads on the other end.

This fitting gives turns copper tubing into pipe threads

Step Four

Now you have multiple choices of how to plumb a line from your remote reservoir. The first one would be a standard 5/8 hose barb. The one shown here can be found in the brass fittings section of the plumbing department.

This brass fitting has 1/2″ male pipe threads on one end and a 5/8″ hose barb on the other

Want a fancy hose with AN fittings? Find a hydraulic supply or farm store and look for fittings labeled “JIC”. The one below has pipe threads on one end, and a 37 degree taper on the other.

This JIC hydraulic fitting has the same threads and taper as AN fittings. This one would be the equivalent of a dash 10.

Because you can point the 90 degree elbow in any direction, you now have many choices for routing your return line. Want still more choices? Use another 90 degree fitting like the JIC fitting show below or a 90 degree brass hose barb.

Second 90 degree fitting gives even more hose routing flexibility

There you have it–one more way to set up your Kwik Performance power steering pump. Of course, if you have the room, our standard straight 5/8 hose barb on our “Accessories” page can work also.

Got some other ideas? Drop me a line at: wayne@kwikperf.com

Kenny and Wayne had an excellent adventure at SEMA this year and one of the highlights was seeing our AC compressor bracket on a really cool truck in the main GM exhibit. The truck was a 1955 Chevy built on a Trailblazer chassis with a brand new cab and sheet metal from Dynacorn and powered by the just-introduced 5.3 E-Rod crate engine.

Mike Copeland and his crew at Diversified Creations not only built the truck in 11 weeks but simultaneously built another wicked machine also featured in the GM booth–a replica of a 1963 Corvette Grand Sport. This was also powered by a just-introduced E-Rod engine but this one was no mild-mannered 5.3, this was the supercharged E-Rod LSA with over 550 horsepower.

Mike called us early in the build of the 55 pickup with a common problem associated with an LS engine swap. He was using a Vintage Air system and wanted to use their 508 Sanden compressor. And even though he was dropping a 5.3 into a Trailblazer chassis, the new engine location caused frame clearance issues and he wanted to mount the compressor just outside the passenger side valve cover. Our standard LS AC compressor bracket was a Kwik and easy solution.

Painted steel wheels and light green paint lend an aura of a restored classic. The lowered stance gives a hint that it might not be all stock.

Pop the hood and it’s 21st century EFI with full emissions certification. It’s the new 5.3 E-Rod crate engine with 330 horsepower. Engine comes with cats, evap recovery and everything else to meet even California emissions regulations.

Hiding under the cold-air intake is a Sanden 508 compressor powering a Vintage Air HVAC system and conveniently mounted on a KwikPerf AC compressor bracket. Mike Copeland and his crew wanted a nice clean, factory look and our bracket fit the bill.

It looks like a brand new 1955 Chevy but Mike Copeland says it drives like a brand new Chevy Trailblazer. Actually, it handles even better because it weighs less.

We’re proud to say that when it came time to choose accessory brackets to convert this 6.0 truck engine, John chose Kwik Performance.

Look for a full feature story in Muscle Car Power magazine.

John used both the Kwik AC compressor bracket and the Kwik alternator/power steering pump bracket.

The Custom Shop, 206 S. Main Flanagan IL. 61740 815 796 2772 www.customshop.org

At the top of the list would the following models:

4665 and 4645

These are later versions which are made for R134 refrigerant. They both have 7-groove pulleys and they work fine even though your GM belt is only a 6-groove.

Here’s what different about the two models:

The 4645 has the following features not found on the 4665:

1. High pressure relief valve on the back plate.
2. Rubber dampers on the clutch armature plate. Slightly quieter operation.
3. 300 cc oil capacity instead of the 240 cc in the 4665.

Most people will find these are minor differences and we recommend which ever one you can find the best deal on.

If your parts counter person doesn’t recognize the four-digit model numbers, have them search for the following applications:

4645:
Same as:
Freightliner truck ABP N83 304953
Peterbilt or Kenworth truck 4645SAN
Volvo truck 85100864
CarQuest 274073

4665:
Same as:
Volvo truck 85100887
CarQuest 275088

If you want to know about new products, hear about the shows we’re attending, or learn about tips and tricks we learn everyday about engine swaps, here’s what to do.

Go to the form below and enter your name and email address.

Next, you’ll get an email from us where you can click one more time just to be sure it’s really you.  Then you’ll be on our automatic update list.  We promise we won’t pester you too much and we will never share your email address with anyone else.

GM is almost as bad as Ford about making changes and having dozens of different part numbers for the same basic part. In the case of PS pump pulleys, having some variation is a good thing.

So far, we’ve found 6-groove serpentine pulley diameters from about 5.25″ to 6.625″. This difference will change the RPM of the pump relative to the engine RPM but for most street applications, you probably won’t register much difference in actual steering feel.

In the photo below, you’ll see one other important difference besides the diameter. Notice that the smaller pulley has access holes while the larger one does not. When selecting a pulley, we really recommend finding one with the holes. Otherwise, any time you want to install or remove the pump, you’ll have to pull the pulley to get to the bolts that mount the pump. That’s not a super big deal if you have the right puller and the right installer tool. But, with most engine swap projects, you’re likely to be installing and removing components several times during your build and then pulling and pressing on a pulley becomes a pain in the butt.

And just one more point: As usual, Corvette parts have to be a little different. In this case, the shaft diameter of most Corvette pumps is .66″. All other Type II (or TC) pumps including Camaros, Firebirds, and most other GM passenger cars are .75″ diameter. So, choose your pump pulley accordingly.

This conversion may be necessary if you’re using our Kwik Performance driver’s side bracket kit. Why do you need our bracket kit at all? Most likely for three reasons:

1. You have a Camaro, Firebird, or GTO engine with the alternator down low and the power steering pump up top. Your LS1 or LS6 engine swap project may have clearance issues with a steering box or you may not like the idea of power steering fluid leaking down and frying your alternator. The Kwik kit puts the alternator up top and the pump down low–like the Corvette position.

2. You have a truck/SUV engine and the alternator is too high, maybe causing hood clearance issues.

3. You have an LS1, LS2, LS6, LS7 or other crate engine or a swap meet engine with no brackets at all. You can run our driver’s side bracket by itself or you can team it up with our air conditioning compressor re-location bracket kit. Either one works alone or in tandem.

If you’re using a F-body engine and you have the original power steering pump, all you have to do is remove the plastic reservoir by driving off two spring clips and giving the reservoir a good tug. You’ll see a plastic sleeve that may come off with the reservoir or may stay in the pump. The sleeve may also have an o-ring. Pull out the sleeve and you’ll be ready for the instructions below.

If you’re using a truck or SUV engine, 4.8, 5.3 or 6.0, you’ll most likely have a Type I (or P) style pump. This is the older Saginaw pump design with an attached metal reservoir. In this case, you have to track down a Type II or TC pump. Almost any GM car from the late ’80s on will be a donor candidate.

Here’s one from a Pontiac Montana van for example:

And here’s one that looks completely different because of the attached plastic reservoir but the pump body is identical. This one is from a 2005 GMC Envoy (same as Chevy Trailblazer).

You can also find good deals on reman units at your local parts store. For example, if you ask for a pump for a 1990 Chevy Celebrity with a 2.5L engine, your local NAPA store will probably charge you around $65 plus a $5 core charge. If you ask for a 2000 Cavalier, you’ll get what appears to be the same pump but you’ll pay about $75 plus a $55 core charge. I’m sure there are minor pressure and output differences but not enough to matter in most street driven vehicles.

Oh, and there’s usually a supplier or two on eBay offering reman units for even less and with no core charge. (Usual disclaimer about checking feedback ratings, etc. before doing business with eBay members).

OK, here’s one way to set up a remote reservoir. We’re going to use factory GM parts from a late Corvette. If you want to buy them new, here are the GM part numbers:

Reservoir 26046502
Bracket 12555222
Return tube 26006074

The photos below show how to install the return tube. When you first look at the return opening on the pump, the place where the reservoir used to connect, you may think that the new return tube you just paid about $30 for, won’t fit. That’s because the hole in the pump has a step. The outer diameter is about .75′ and the inner, stepped diameter is the .625″ that matches the new return tube.

The return tube will be a press fit. The simplest way I found to do the job is to lube up the end of the tube, hold it in place, slide a 5/8″ open end wrench over the tube just above one of the beads, and then tap gently on the wrench with a hammer. Keep moving the wrench around the tube as you hammer to keep the tube going in straight.

Next, bolt on the GM bracket using the two upper/inner bolts than hold the Kwik bracket to the cylinder head. After that, just slide the reservoir down over the spring tabs on the bracket.

Here’s what it looks like with the reservoir in place.

Now, you’ll see two tubes sticking out the bottom of the reservoir. One is a small tube where the fluid returns to the reservoir from the steering box. The other is a larger, 5/8″ tube that points down and back. Here’s where you attach a feed hose from the reservoir down to the pump. This is a non-pressure hose but does need to be an oil-resistant type of hose (no heater hose here).

OK, that one way to do it. A second way, slightly more complicated, we’ll cover in a later post. The second way involves tapping the power steering pump for a threaded fitting so you can run stainless braided hose or other hydraulic hose with threaded fittings.

And, if you’re working with a larger budget, a third way is to source an aftermarket pump that’s already equipped with a threaded fitting. These pumps are often used in racing or off-road applications. Check Summit Racing or Jeg’s for more info.

Some people don’t really care for the GM rotary air conditioning compressor, however.  So here’s how you can replace it with the most popular aftermarket compressor–the Sanden 508.

For some reason, the most common multi-groove pulley, the one that Vintage Air and others sell, is a 7-groove, while the GM belt is a 6-groove.  No matter, with what I’m about to share, you simply use the rear 6 grooves and leave the front one empty.

The Sanden has two sets of four mounting ears, 1 set at the front, 1 set at the rear.  To start, simply place one of the front ears just behind the inner hole on the GM bracket.  Temporarily stick a longer bolt in the matching rear hole.  You’ll see that you’ll need a short spacer or even just a stack of washers to connect the rear holes.

Then make a short “link” to connect the outer holes of the compressor and the bracket.  I used 3/8″ material.  The length of this link can vary depending on how much valve cover clearance you need.  I was able to keep the center of the compressor shaft in approximately the same location as the GM compressor.  You’ll see that you will also need a short tube spacer to connect the link to the bracket.  You could make a matching rear link but just the one seems really sturdy.

This mounting system puts the Sanden at a 45 degree angle from it’s normal position.  The Sanden website says 45 degrees is acceptable and maintains the inner lubrication.

Here’s an overview.  You’ll notice that in this case, the small block brackets are actually still on a small block.  But you get the idea.

Here are the inner ears.  The front one (to your left) is a direct mount.  The rear one requires a short tube spacer.

Notice that the connecting link also needs a short tube spacer to connect the outer ear of the Sanden to the outer hole on the GM bracket.